Montmartre, the bohemian heart of Paris, rises 130 meters above the city on a hill crowned by the gleaming Sacré-Cœur Basilica. This cobblestone village within the city has inspired artists from Picasso to Renoir, and today welcomes visitors seeking authentic Parisian charm mixed with artistic legacy.
Total Distance: 3.5 kilometers (2.2 miles)
Duration: 3-4 hours with stops
Difficulty: Moderate (steep hills and stairs)
Best Time: Early morning (8-10 AM) or late afternoon (4-6 PM)
Starting Point: Pigalle Metro Station
Begin your journey at Pigalle Metro Station (Lines 2 and 12), the gateway to Montmartre’s legendary nightlife district. This area transforms from seedy adult entertainment by night to charming neighborhood cafés by day.
Historical Context: Pigalle became the red-light district in the late 19th century when cabarets like the Moulin Rouge attracted bohemian artists and wealthy tourists seeking risqué entertainment.
First Stop Café: Le Consulat (18 Rue Norvins) – This corner café has maintained its Belle Époque charm since 1900, serving strong coffee and buttery croissants to locals and early-rising tourists.
Stop 1: Moulin Rouge (15 minutes)
Walk north on Boulevard de Clichy to the iconic red windmill that has symbolized Parisian nightlife since 1889. While the show requires tickets, the exterior provides perfect photo opportunities with its distinctive architecture.
Historical Tidbit: The Moulin Rouge’s original windmill was functional, grinding grain for local bakers. The venue launched the careers of dancers like La Goulue, immortalized in Toulouse-Lautrec’s famous posters.
Walking Direction: Continue east on Boulevard de Clichy, then turn right on Rue Lepic to begin your ascent into Montmartre proper.
Stop 2: Rue Lepic Market Street (20 minutes)
This winding street leads uphill past traditional French shops, bakeries, and the apartment where Vincent van Gogh lived with his brother Theo from 1886-1888. The authentic market atmosphere provides insight into local Parisian life.
Van Gogh Connection: At 54 Rue Lepic, a plaque marks where Van Gogh created over 200 paintings during his Paris period, experimenting with the brighter palette that would define his later masterworks.
Essential Stop: Du Pain et des Idées (4 Rue Yves Toudic, short detour) – Artisanal bakery famous for its laminated pastries and sourdough breads, perfect for picnic supplies.
Navigation Note: The street splits into upper and lower sections. Follow the steeper upper route (Rue Lepic Haute) for the most scenic pathway to the summit.
Stop 3: Café des Deux Moulins (15 minutes)
Made famous by the film “Amélie,” this traditional café retains its 1950s décor and serves as a perfect rest stop during your uphill climb. The green-and-red exterior and vintage interior transport visitors to cinematic Paris.
Film Connection: Audrey Tautou’s character worked here as a waitress, and many scenes showcase the café’s authentic Formica tables and zinc bar that remain unchanged today.
Refreshment Tip: Order a café crème and pain au chocolat while resting your legs before the steeper sections ahead.
Stop 4: Moulin de la Galette (20 minutes)
One of Montmartre’s two remaining windmills, this 17th-century structure operated as both mill and dance hall. Renoir’s famous painting “Bal du moulin de la Galette” depicts Sunday afternoon dancing that once took place here.
Artistic Legacy: The windmill’s garden parties attracted impressionist painters who captured the dappled sunlight filtering through acacia trees onto dancing couples below.
Current Status: Now a private residence, but the exterior windmill and surrounding gardens remain visible from Rue Lepic and provide excellent photography opportunities.
Stop 5: Secret Stairways – Rue Maurice Utrillo (25 minutes)
These hidden staircases connect different levels of Montmartre while providing intimate views of ivy-covered buildings and private gardens. The steps appear in countless films and paintings as quintessentially Parisian scenes.
Photography Tip: The morning light filtering through overhanging branches creates dramatic shadows perfect for atmospheric photos.
Local Secret: Many staircases connect to private passages leading to hidden courtyards where artists’ studios once flourished during Montmartre’s bohemian heyday.
Practical Note: Handrails assist with steep sections, but wear appropriate footwear for potentially slippery stone steps.
Stop 6: Place du Tertre (45 minutes)
The heart of tourist Montmartre, this tree-shaded square buzzes with portrait artists, caricaturists, and souvenir vendors. Despite commercialization, the square retains authentic charm, especially early morning before crowds arrive.
Artistic Tradition: Portrait artists continue a tradition dating to the early 1900s when established painters like Picasso and Utrillo sketched here for pocket money.
Historical Context: This square served as Montmartre’s village center when the area remained independent from Paris until 1860. The old mairie (town hall) still overlooks the square.
Dining Recommendation: La Mère Catherine (6 Place du Tertre) – Claims to be Paris’s first bistro (1793), serving traditional French cuisine with outdoor seating for prime people-watching.
Stop 7: Église Saint-Pierre de Montmartre (15 minutes)
This 12th-century church, one of Paris’s oldest, sits in Sacré-Cœur’s shadow but predates the famous basilica by seven centuries. The Romanesque architecture and peaceful interior provide respite from tourist crowds.
Historical Significance: Built on a former Roman temple site, the church witnessed the founding of the Jesuit order in 1534 when Ignatius Loyola and companions took their vows here.
Architectural Detail: Four ancient Roman columns incorporated into the nave connect modern visitors with the hill’s 2,000-year religious history.
Stop 8: Sacré-Cœur Basilica (60 minutes)
The white Romano-Byzantine basilica dominates Paris’s skyline and offers panoramic city views from its steps and dome. Construction began in 1875 following France’s defeat in the Franco-Prussian War as a symbol of national renewal.
Opening Hours: Daily 6:00 AM – 10:30 PM (basilica), 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM (dome, €7 admission)
Architectural Marvel: The travertine stone naturally whitens when wet, ensuring the basilica maintains its brilliant appearance even after rain.
Best Views: The steps provide free panoramic views, while the dome offers 360-degree vistas for a small fee. Early morning and golden hour provide optimal lighting conditions.
Practical Facilities: Public restrooms available at the base of the basilica steps (€0.50), along with water fountains and seating areas.
Stop 9: Funicular Railway or Stairway Descent (20 minutes)
Choose between the funicular railway (€1.90, same price as metro ticket) for easy descent or the scenic stairway for continued walking. Both routes lead to the base of the hill and metro connections.
Funicular History: Operating since 1900, the railway covers 108 meters of elevation change in just 90 seconds, originally built to transport construction materials for Sacré-Cœur.
Stairway Alternative: The 300+ steps provide excellent exercise and photo opportunities of the basilica shrinking above as you descend.
Stop 10: Wall of Love (Le Mur des Je t’aime) (15 minutes)
This contemporary art installation in Jehan Rictus Square features “I love you” written in 250 languages on 612 tiles. Created in 2000, it has become a pilgrimage site for couples and a symbol of universal love.
Artistic Concept: Red fragments scattered across the wall represent broken hearts being mended by love, creating a poetic meditation on human connection.
Location: Small square at the intersection of Rue Jehan Rictus and Rue des Abbesses, easily accessible from Abbesses Metro Station.
Hidden Gems and Secret Spots
Vineyard of Montmartre (Clos Montmartre) Paris’s last remaining vineyard produces about 500 bottles annually. While not open to public, viewing from Rue des Saules provides insight into Montmartre’s agricultural past.
Villa Léandre This private cobblestone street lined with English-style cottages feels transported from London. Built in 1926, it remains one of Paris’s most exclusive residential areas.
Bateau-Lavoir Studios The original building burned down, but a replica marks where Picasso painted “Les Demoiselles d’Avignon” and the Cubist movement was born.
Practical Information
Public Restrooms:
- Sacré-Cœur base (€0.50)
- Place du Tertre (free)
- Abbesses Metro Station (free)
- Square Willette (free)
Metro Connections:
- Start: Pigalle (Lines 2, 12)
- Finish: Abbesses (Line 12) or Anvers (Line 2)
- Alternative: Lamarck-Caulaincourt (Line 12) for northern access
Hill Navigation Tips:
- Wear comfortable walking shoes with good grip
- Bring water, especially during summer months
- Use handrails on steep staircases
- Take breaks at café terraces to rest and rehydrate
Weather Considerations:
- Cobblestones become slippery when wet
- Wind increases significantly at higher elevations
- Early morning fog can obscure city views from Sacré-Cœur
Recommended Dining Stops
Breakfast/Coffee:
- Le Consulat (18 Rue Norvins) – Historic atmosphere, excellent coffee
- La Régence (17 Place du Tertre) – Traditional French breakfast with square views
Lunch:
- L’Assemblée (3 Rue Véron) – Modern bistro with seasonal menu
- Pink Mamma (20 Rue de Douai) – Instagram-worthy Italian with plant-filled décor
Afternoon Snacks:
- Pierre Hermé (185 Rue de Vaugirard) – Macarons and pastries to go
- Crêperie Broceliande (13 Rue Norvins) – Sweet and savory crêpes
Dinner:
- Le Moulin de la Galette (83 Rue Lepic) – Fine dining in historic windmill setting
- Chez la Mère Catherine (6 Place du Tertre) – Traditional bistro atmosphere
Photography Tips
Golden Hour Shots:
- Sacré-Cœur steps facing west for sunset city views
- Rue de l’Abreuvoir with vineyard for morning light
- Place du Tertre’s tree shadows during late afternoon
Architectural Details:
- Stone staircases with iron handrails
- Ivy-covered building facades
- Traditional French shutters and window boxes
Street Life:
- Artists working in Place du Tertre
- Café terraces with local patrons
- Market vendors on Rue Lepic
This walking tour reveals Montmartre’s layers of history, from Roman settlement to artistic revolution to modern tourist destination. The neighborhood rewards slow exploration, allowing visitors to discover hidden corners where Parisian village life continues alongside international tourism. Whether seeking artistic inspiration, romantic atmosphere, or simply excellent city views, Montmartre delivers an authentically Parisian experience that justifies its reputation as the city’s most charming neighborhood.
Take your time, rest frequently, and remember that the steepest climbs lead to the most rewarding views. Montmartre has inspired artists for over a century – let it inspire your own Parisian adventure.